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October 23, 2026 — Split, Croatia — Port Call

October 23, 2026 — Split, Croatia: Good Food, Good Friends, and a Little Ship Life

I woke up at 6:30 this morning feeling refreshed and ready for a big day in Split, Croatia. The sun was shining, the sky was a beautiful blue, and I was excited to get ashore. It was the kind of morning that makes you appreciate being out here, seeing the world one port at a time.

By 7:00 a.m., I was back in the spa for my morning shave. That has become a very pleasant part of my routine aboard Explorer of the Seas. This morning, however, came with some disappointing news: Ritee told me this was her last day on the ship before moving on to her next assignment.

Over the past week, we have spent time talking and getting to know each other. It is amazing how quickly someone can become a familiar and welcome part of your day. Just when you find a barber who knows your face—and whom you trust with a sharp blade—ship life steps in and changes the arrangements! I was sad to see her go, but I wished her well. Tomorrow, a new barber and I will begin getting acquainted.

At 8:00, it was time for the famous Pinnacle breakfast and a chance to catch up with old friends. Everyone was looking forward to their adventures in Split. There is nothing quite like a hearty American breakfast, good conversation, and a sunny Croatian morning to get the day started properly.

Sunlight poured through the dining room’s tall windows, lighting up the neatly set tables and the sea beyond. My photographs also captured Anthony’s restaurant name badge, another little piece of shipboard life. These everyday details belong in the story alongside the ports and excursions.

Morning sunshine fills the dining room aboard Explorer of the Seas—a pleasant start before heading ashore in Split.

Morning sunshine fills the dining room aboard Explorer of the Seas—a pleasant start before heading ashore in Split.

Anthony’s restaurant name badge, a small reminder of the people who are part of daily life aboard the ship.

Anthony’s restaurant name badge, a small reminder of the people who are part of daily life aboard the ship.

Today’s excursion was the Split Culinary Experience, a chance to head into the countryside and enjoy a different side of Croatia. Beautiful mountain views, traditional food, local wine, and olive oil sounded like a very sensible way to spend the day.

We traveled by air-conditioned motor coach to a family estate surrounded by lovely countryside. The estate’s museum introduced us to the olive tree and its place in the region’s traditions. Growing olives and making olive oil have long been part of life here, and it was interesting to see that history woven into the experience.

The museum displays made the story tangible: a large stone mill wheel, a wooden vat, and old photographs showing traditional olive oil processing. One panel even gave the olive tree its own ID card, tracing its canopy and roots. Seeing the equipment was a reminder of the work that once went into something we now pour so casually over a meal.

The olive tree gets its own ID card in the museum, with a diagram of its canopy, trunk, and roots.

The olive tree gets its own ID card in the museum, with a diagram of its canopy, trunk, and roots.

A stone mill wheel, wooden vat, and historical photographs illustrate the work behind traditional olive oil production.

A stone mill wheel, wooden vat, and historical photographs illustrate the work behind traditional olive oil production.

The visit included a traditional pesto-making presentation, paired with homemade pasta and a glass of local wine. This was a relaxed introduction to the food rather than a formal cooking class, with an opportunity for guests to get involved in the preparation. Lunch and a tasting of the estate’s award-winning olive oil rounded out the visit.

The cooking presentation took place against warm stone walls beneath exposed wooden beams. A large black pot sat over a gas flame, while fresh leafy greens, garlic, and small bowls of ingredients waited on the counter. It was an inviting setting, with the preparation happening right in front of us—exactly the sort of detail that makes a food excursion memorable.

Our presenter introduces the cooking demonstration in the estate’s stone-walled kitchen.

Our presenter introduces the cooking demonstration in the estate’s stone-walled kitchen.

Fresh leafy greens, garlic, and bowls of ingredients line the counter for our Croatian culinary presentation.

Fresh leafy greens, garlic, and bowls of ingredients line the counter for our Croatian culinary presentation.

I enjoy excursions like this because they bring a place down to a human scale. The scenery is beautiful, but food and family traditions give you something else to remember. Croatia certainly gave us plenty to appreciate today.

My lunch arrived as a generous bowl of ribbon pasta dressed in vivid green pesto and finished with grated cheese. With wine on the table and red-and-white checked placemats underneath, it made a colorful photograph as well as a memorable lunch. Outside, the garden offered another lovely scene: broad leaves catching the sunshine, shady trees, and brick paths winding between the plantings. There was plenty to enjoy with both a fork and a camera.

Homemade pasta coated in green pesto and topped with grated cheese, served with wine at our Croatian lunch.

Homemade pasta coated in green pesto and topped with grated cheese, served with wine at our Croatian lunch.

Sunshine, leafy trees, and generous pots of greenery brighten the estate’s garden paths.

Sunshine, leafy trees, and generous pots of greenery brighten the estate’s garden paths.

By 2:00 p.m., I was back aboard Explorer of the Seas. I went to my room to change, clean up, and take a nap. A good day ashore deserves a little recovery time, especially when the afternoon schedule includes another visit to the spa.

At 4:00, I returned for my final treatment of this leg of the cruise: my favorite aroma seaweed treatment. This time, I went for the full 100 minutes. If I was going to finish the week, I might as well finish it properly.

The treatment combines a warm seaweed mask, aromatic essential oils, a comforting body wrap, and a full-body massage. For me, the attraction is simple: warmth, relaxation, and a chance to let the muscles unwind.

Even better, Megan—one of my all-time favorite people in the spa—was my therapist. She worked me over thoroughly and gave me the full treatment. We had some good laughs, and by the time I walked out, I felt fantastic. I cannot claim the spa actually took ten years off my age, but I certainly felt as though it had. I had energy to spare.

The quiet treatment room was a welcome change of pace after the activity ashore. I also have a group photograph with the spa team to remember this first segment. That picture says a great deal about what makes cruising enjoyable for me: the treatments are wonderful, but it is the people, their smiles, and the time we spend together that stay with me.

A quiet treatment room aboard Explorer of the Seas, ready for an afternoon of relaxation.

A quiet treatment room aboard Explorer of the Seas, ready for an afternoon of relaxation.

With the spa team aboard Explorer of the Seas—the people who have made this first cruise segment so enjoyable.

With the spa team aboard Explorer of the Seas—the people who have made this first cruise segment so enjoyable.

At 7:45 p.m., I headed to Giovanni’s Table for dinner. It has become a favorite evening stop, with its cozy Italian atmosphere and a menu that makes choosing just one thing a challenge.

From cured meats and Italian cheeses to homemade pasta, rich sauces, and slow-braised dishes, Giovanni’s offers a little culinary tour of Italy without requiring me to leave the ship. Gnocchi with Gorgonzola, bucatini Bolognese, and ossobuco are among the temptations, with tiramisu waiting for anyone who still has room. After today’s Croatian lunch, it seemed only appropriate to continue my international food research.

I left the restaurant around 9:45 p.m. still feeling full of energy, so I took a long, leisurely stroll and enjoyed the beautiful starry sky after our day in Croatia. There was no need to rush. It was a good evening to walk, reflect, and appreciate how well this adventure has been going.

It is hard to believe the first leg of the cruise is already coming to an end. Tomorrow we return to Ravenna, where some passengers will say goodbye and others will arrive with their own adventures ahead. I will be staying aboard for the next segment, taking me from Ravenna to Barcelona.

Today brought a little sadness at saying goodbye to Ritee, a wonderful taste of Croatia, a thoroughly enjoyable afternoon with Megan, and another good evening at sea. The places matter, but so do the people who make these days special.

One leg is ending, and another is about to begin. I am feeling good, grateful to be here, and looking forward to what comes next.

 
 
 

1 Comment


Dave Ryan
Oct 23

Joe, You might recall me telling you that Nancy & I discovered Croatia strictly by accident. The itinerary of our Smithsonian tour of the Eastern Mediterranean had us crossing the Adriatic from Greece to Ravenna, Italy on our way to Venice; however, a storm arose and our Captain refused to cross, rerouting our itinerary north through Croatia. Lots of bullet holes remaining in Dubrovnik, but we were surprised & impressed with the whole area.

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